Access

By Car

From the main Granada ring road (Circunvalación) follow the well signposted mountain road to Sierra Nevada (A-395). This leads to the main ski resort at Pradollano. At km30 and just before entering the resort turn left following signs to Hoya de la Mora and Albergues de Granada. At km35 and at 2500m altitude, the road ends. There are car parks on either side of the road. This is the Hoya de la Mora.

After new snowfall the access road to the Hoya de la Mora can become blocked and is the last road to be cleared and opened by the ski lift company. In this case you can turn right at km31 and follow the signs to a large car park at Telesilla de las Nieves. This is a little below the Hoya de la Mora and necessitates a short uphill walk (30 mins) following the car park access road N for 100m before tuning S onto the main access road.

On weekends and fiestas this area can become heavily congested with families eager to toboggan down the slopes leading to the car parks. The police at times restrict numbers and close the road. An early start is essential.

Albergue Universitario Sierra Nevada

Telephone: +34 958 480 122 Website: www.alberguesierranevada.com/ Email: [email protected]

This guarded hostel is situated at 2500m near the Peñones de San Fransisco and adjacent to the Hoya de la Mora. Very useful if you want an early start to the mountaineering routes in the Coral del Veleta or if embarking on a long ski tour and only 300m away from the ice climbing at Cascada de los Militares

It is open all year, has serviced accommodation, restaurant, café, and a leisure lounge with a large fireplace.

Access to Posiciones del Veleta

Access for the next few routes all leave the Hoya de la Mora and ascend the broad NNW slopes of Veleta. Pass either side of the statue, “Virgen de las Nieves” and L of the chairlift station “Telesilla de la Virgin”. There are always plenty of trails and even the edges of the “Aguila” ski piste can be used to easily ascend to the 3100m northern shoulder of Veleta named “Posiciones del Veleta”. It is frequently very windy and icy hereabouts with huge cornices eastwards into the Corral del Veleta.

Descent from here back to the Hoya de la Mora in bad weather is easy. Just follow the outer edge of the ski pistes and reverse the route of ascent.

For ski tourers, a better descent is to drop N into the upper bowl of the Barranco de San Juan, until an escape L at 2500m follows rising slopes back to the Virgen de la Nieves.

Access to Corral del Veleta

Many routes start from the deep valley of the Corral which lies beneath the impressive N face of Veleta. In early or late season you can crampon down the slanting rake known as the Veredon Superior del Veleta. Care is required as the walls are almost vertical beneath.

If there are large cornices then access to the Veredon will have to be made via abseil. There is an abseil point installed further up the ridge crest and some 30m height above the ski road. An orange sign on a rock marks the place. 2- 50m ropes will be sufficient. Keep crampons on for when you join the Veredon.

Descent

The shortest option is using the same route as that of the ascent. A more interesting option is to return to the col SW of Cerro de los Machos and continue into the bowl S of Veleta summit. A gently rising series of bends (following the old road) leads to the Col de Cariguela where the ski pistes are met.

An alternative route to the Col de Cariguela, do-able in lean conditions, keeps above the road and uses the “Paso de los Guias” to connect the valley with the col. A short 20m of cable protects the route through the rock wall.

From the col ascend slightly before descending N on pisted ski road. At Posiciones del Veleta follow the outer edges of the Aguila ski piste back to the car park at Hoya de la Mora.

Cerro de los Machos NE Face

Grade D (50º)

1st Ascent - 22 February 1970 Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Carlos Vasquez Canas

Climb across the Col de los Monteses and so onto the steep NE face. Go left, cross the face and climb right before trending dirctly for the summit. A long day over continuously difficult terrain.

Cerro de los Machos NE ridge

Grade D (up to 65º)

1st Ascent - 18th March 1967 Emilio Ortiz Sanchez/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla Mesa

Reach the Paso de las Monteses and then ascend the arete directly. A mixed climb on 45 to 50 deg slopes but with a delicate section of 65 deg and V rock. Descend via the easy SW slopes to the Col de Cariguela.

Cerro de los Machos N Face

Grade AD

1st Ascent - 10th February 1974 Jose Guardia Olmedo/Francisco Olmedo Roelas

The first third is frequently verglassed with passages of grade V rock, alternating with narrow icy stretches. The next 10 pitches are at an average angle of 50 deg. The slope eases for the last part to the summit. Descend down the easy SW slopes to the Col de Cariguela.

Cerro de los Machos Corredor Norte

Grade AD

Veta Grande (2,981m) (via Lanchar Ridge)

Grade AD (60º and III)

1st Ascent - 8th December 1969 Jose Guardia Olmedo/Francisco Olmedo Roelas

Access via Guejar Sierra and Verada de la Estrella. The ridge is situated on the left side of the Rio Valdeinfierno. The first third of the ridge is easy. The second has an average angle of 60 deg and rock section of III. The last third of the ridge is level but a section of rock V is by passed on the right. Either descend left (Valdeinfiernos) or right (Corral de Veleta) or complete the upper section of Cerro de los Machos NE ridge. N.B This is a long mountaineering route. Descents are long and hard!

Veta Grande (El Paso de las Monteses)

Grade PD

1st Ascent - Unknown

The Paso de las Monteses is the col between the upper part of the Lanchar Ridge and the NE ridge leading to Cerro de los Machos. From here one can drop down into the Valdeinfierno valley to make a fine traverse.