Winter – PD
Approach from the Postero Alto hut (guarded) (3hrs). Climb is up the obvious couloir line. Plenty of belays available. Nice climb!
Jul 072008
Not too much water ice climbing as you might expect in this part of Spain. There are some icefalls on the NE face of Alcazaba (1hr approach from Siete Lagunas) usually in condition and some higher streams and barrancos on the northern side form good ice.
The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the Hoya de la Mora above the ski centre. You have a 25m walk to the fall which is located below and east of the green military bunkhouse. The ice is named appropriately “la cascada de los militares “. This is often 30m in height containing 4 or 5 routes. The icefall is actually formed out of the overflow from the bunkhouse water and sewerage systems! Not as nasty as you might think but keep away from the coloured ice on the far left looking up!
Protection: fixed bolted chain at a couple of points. We have utilised the bunkhouse railings but the Guardia Civil get a little exciteable off with this, but you can always find some natural protection further back with a bit of resourcefulness.
The icefall is popular with the spanish who can monopolise the available protection. Advice is to start early or finish late. We have actually climbed on into the night via headtorches, an eerie experience!
See the short video below called “Ice Climb 7000″ showing the ice climbing here.
Winter – AD (60º)
1st Ascent – 24th March 1970 Cuevas/Lopez/Asiain/Matose/Gomez
From the Laguna de la Mosca go right and then trend back left to gain the central couloir (30-40deg). The main couloir (canuto) is 300m long and at 50-55 deg. Above this there is some mixed climbing before trending right to finish just right of the summit.
Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara.
Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit.
Descent is easiest back to Siete Lagunas via the Alcazaba normal route (F) and hence to Trevelez.
Short video of an ascent via the Tajos Goteron icefalls just left of the route shown above
Jun 272008
Winter – AD (50º) (PD in good conditions with footsteps to follow!)
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.
Climb leftwards missing the initial rocks in the bottom half of the couloir. Attain the couloir and climb straight up. Steep but it has been frequently skied (by experts only!). This can be a very popular route.
N.B The line on the photo below is not quite accurate in that the approach is from the right not left hand side.
Rock Climb – D (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 5th August 1967 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla
Mesa/Emilio Ortiz/Sanchez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Martinez Perea
Winter – ED
1st Ascent – 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.
Climb – The climb consists of 6 steep pitches between IV and V grade. After the 2nd pitch there is a traverse to the right for 20 metres. On the 6th pitch you meet a small overhang (V), which continues with an airy horizontal traverse to the right. This pitch climbs a big inclined crack rightwards until the ridgeline is met.
Rock Climb – AD (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.
Climb – This climb starts some 20 metres higher than the start of the Corredor del Salon. Traverse right on a short passage of very airy rock (V). At the end of this you change direction leftwards in a short crack for some 3 metres (IV). Continue the climb with short pitches and small stances until you reach the top near the summit.
