Winter – PD
Approach from the Postero Alto hut (guarded) (3hrs). Climb is up the obvious couloir line. Plenty of belays available. Nice climb!
Jul 082008
The first snows fall in November but realistically mountaineering doesnt get going until early December. The season last well into May.
The major snows fall in November/December and March/April. January and February have little preciptiation normally, just 2 or 3 bad days a month. Best ice is found, not unsurprisingly, in January, February and March.
With the advent of spring in early April, warmer temperatures and more daylight mean that snowshoes are often needed in the afternoons.
When we first arrived here in 2001 snow depths throughout the season were between 3 and 4 metres. Approaches were more arduous. The last 2 winters have produced less than a metre! Still fine for our sport though.
Average snow level is between 2000-2500m for much of the winter.
Jul 072008
Not too much water ice climbing as you might expect in this part of Spain. There are some icefalls on the NE face of Alcazaba (1hr approach from Siete Lagunas) usually in condition and some higher streams and barrancos on the northern side form good ice.
The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the Hoya de la Mora above the ski centre. You have a 25m walk to the fall which is located below and east of the green military bunkhouse. The ice is named appropriately “la cascada de los militares “. This is often 30m in height containing 4 or 5 routes. The icefall is actually formed out of the overflow from the bunkhouse water and sewerage systems! Not as nasty as you might think but keep away from the coloured ice on the far left looking up!
Protection: fixed bolted chain at a couple of points. We have utilised the bunkhouse railings but the Guardia Civil get a little exciteable off with this, but you can always find some natural protection further back with a bit of resourcefulness.
The icefall is popular with the spanish who can monopolise the available protection. Advice is to start early or finish late. We have actually climbed on into the night via headtorches, an eerie experience!
See the short video below called “Ice Climb 7000″ showing the ice climbing here.
Winter – AD (60º)
1st Ascent – 24th March 1970 Cuevas/Lopez/Asiain/Matose/Gomez
From the Laguna de la Mosca go right and then trend back left to gain the central couloir (30-40deg). The main couloir (canuto) is 300m long and at 50-55 deg. Above this there is some mixed climbing before trending right to finish just right of the summit.
Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara.
Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit.
Descent is easiest back to Siete Lagunas via the Alcazaba normal route (F) and hence to Trevelez.
Short video of an ascent via the Tajos Goteron icefalls just left of the route shown above
Jun 282008
Access Locations:
(1) Hoya de la Mora (2500m). Follow the ski road from Granada to the ski town. Follow the signs left for “Veleta” above the town and reach a car park at the road end. Good quick access for Veleta, Los Machos and Catujo sectors. Cariguela hut is 3hrs from here.
(2) Cortijuela (1700m). Follow the road through La Zubia towards the Cumbres Verdes. Continue on past Fuente del Hervidero to the Cortijuela. Good for access to Dilar and Cartujo sectors.
(3) Fuente Fria (Dehesa de Durcal) (2150m). Follow the rough track above Niguelas going up the gorge. Keep going until the Cortijos de Echevaria are reached. Continue traversing NE on poor track until the road end at Fuente Fria. 4WD only. Good for Caballo and Cartujo access from the west.
(4) Ventura trailhead (2100m). Follow the track up the side of El Frenazo restaurant in Lanjaron. Signs lead in 45 mins to the Ventura trailhead. 15 mins to ruined Ventura hut. 3hrs to hut at Laguna de Caballo. At times 4WD necessary.
(5) Puente Palo (1750m). Above the village of Cañar and accessible from either Orgiva or Lanjaron (40 mins). Rough track but 4WD not necessary. Start point for Tajos de los Machos. 2 hours to Cebollar hut from here. Elorrieta is 5 hours and 1500m ascent!
(6) Casa Forestal La Pluca (2225m). East side of Las Alegas above the western flank of the Poqueira Gorge. Access from Soportujar (30 mins) on rough track. High access to Tajos de los Machos and Elorrieta hut (4hrs).
(7) Centro Electrico Cebadilla (1500m). Main sheltered route to Poqueira Hut in winter if snow low down. Just a 15 min drive above Capileira. Hut is 3 hours from here.
(8 ) Hoya de Portillo (2150m). A rough track above Capileira leads in 25 mins to the road end at a barrier by a ranger station. 4WD not normally necessary. Track upwards through the forest leads either to the Poqueira hut (3hrs) or the south ridge of Mulhacen. 2.5hrs to the Poqueira Hut. 5 hours to the Cariguela hut.
(9) Trevelez (1600m). The town is good for access to Alcazaba via Siete Lagunas (2900m).
(10) Jerez de Marsquesado. Normally start or end point for Los Tres Miles full ridge traverse. Long unrelenting ascent is necessary from here!
(11) Verada de Estrella. Via the town of Guejar Sierra. Follow the road through the town and via a series of road tunnels either side of the Genil river. Finally you arrive at the road end when there is ample car space available. Access the N and NW sides of Mulhacen, Alcazaba, Puntal de la Caldera from here. Also the Lanchar ridge can be started from here. 2hrs to the Cueva Sectreta bivouac site.
MANNED:
Poqueira Hut (2500m). Guarded Hut – 87 beds. Tel:958343349. V.good. Just SE Rio Mulhacen. Approach from Capileira or Hoya de la Mora.
Postero Alto (2000m). Guarded Hut – winter quarters. Tel:958760106. Firebreak main route Picon de Jeres above Jerez.
GOOD CONDITION:
Cariguela (3200m). Sleeps12. Hut, wooden bunks. Between Veleta and Tajos de la Virgen. 3hrs from Hoya de la Mora.
Caldera (3100m). Sleeps 12. Hut, wooden bunks. S of Puntal de la Caldera next to the Laguna de la Caldera. 2hrs from Poqueira Hut. 1.5hrs from Cariguela hut. Good for access to Col de Ciervo and Mulhacen N face.
Loma Pela (3067m). Sleeps 12. Hut, wooden bunks. S of Loma Pelada just below the old road level.
POOR CONDITION:
Elorrieta (3197m). Sleeps 20 + bivvy tunnels. S end of Tajos de la Virgen.
Peña Partida (2451m). Sleeps 10. On the Loma de Maitena. Acess via Genil and Verada de Estrella. Good for northen mountains.
Cucharacha (1800m). Sleeps 16. On the Loma del Calvario. Access via the Verada de Estrella. Good for Alcazaba and Vacares sectors.
Vadillo (1342m). Sleeps 8. Where the Vadillo and Genil meet. Too low really for much use.
Caballo (2860m). Sleeps 8. Next to the Laguna del Caballo. 3hrs from the Ventura trailhead.
RUINED STATE:
Ventura (2180m). 15 mins from ventura trailhead.
Peñon Colorado (2875)
Loma de Cañar (2800m)
Cebollar (2500m). Access from Casa Forestal La Pluca or Puente Palo (2hrs)
NATURAL SHELTERS:
Cueva Secreta. Capacity 8. Confluence of Valsecasillas and Veldeinfiernos rivers. Useful for access to N faces of Mulhacen and Alcazaba.
Tunel de Veleta. Capacity 5-8. In the Corral de Veleta. Useful for climbing on N Veleta.
Siete Lagunas. Capacity 5-6. At the entrance to Siete Lagunas by Laguna Hondera. Sometimes buried under snow so take a shovel!
More info can be found at http://www.spanishhighs.co.uk/huts.html
Poqueira Hut details
Jun 272008
Winter – AD (50º) (PD in good conditions with footsteps to follow!)
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.
Climb leftwards missing the initial rocks in the bottom half of the couloir. Attain the couloir and climb straight up. Steep but it has been frequently skied (by experts only!). This can be a very popular route.
N.B The line on the photo below is not quite accurate in that the approach is from the right not left hand side.
Rock Climb – D (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 5th August 1967 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla
Mesa/Emilio Ortiz/Sanchez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Martinez Perea
Winter – ED
1st Ascent – 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.
Climb – The climb consists of 6 steep pitches between IV and V grade. After the 2nd pitch there is a traverse to the right for 20 metres. On the 6th pitch you meet a small overhang (V), which continues with an airy horizontal traverse to the right. This pitch climbs a big inclined crack rightwards until the ridgeline is met.
Rock Climb – AD (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.
Climb – This climb starts some 20 metres higher than the start of the Corredor del Salon. Traverse right on a short passage of very airy rock (V). At the end of this you change direction leftwards in a short crack for some 3 metres (IV). Continue the climb with short pitches and small stances until you reach the top near the summit.
