Posts Categorized: Information

When?

Posted by & filed under When to go?.

The first snows fall in November but realistically mountaineering doesnt get going until early December. The season last well into May. The major snows fall in November/December and March/April. January and February have little preciptiation normally, just 2 or 3 bad days a month. Best ice is found, not unsurprisingly, in January, February and March…. Read more »

Ice Climbing

Posted by & filed under Ice Climbing, Videos.

Not too much water ice climbing as you might expect in this part of Spain. There are some icefalls on the NE face of Alcazaba (1hr approach from Siete Lagunas) usually in condition and some higher streams and barrancos on the northern side form good ice. The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the… Read more »

Mulhacen (3,481m) Cara Norte (29b)

Posted by & filed under Grade AD, Mulhacen, Videos.

Winter – AD (60º) 1st Ascent – 24th March 1970 Cuevas/Lopez/Asiain/Matose/Gomez From the Laguna de la Mosca go right and then trend back left to gain the central couloir (30-40deg). The main couloir (canuto) is 300m long and at 50-55 deg. Above this there is some mixed climbing before trending right to finish just right of the summit.

Alcazaba (3,366m) via Tajos Goteron

Posted by & filed under Alcazaba, Grade AD, Videos.

Winter – AD 1st Ascent – 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara. Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit. Descent is easiest back to Siete Lagunas via… Read more »

Access locations and map

Posted by & filed under Access and approaches, Maps, Misc.

Access Locations: (1) Hoya de la Mora (2500m). Follow the ski road from Granada to the ski town. Follow the signs left for “Veleta” above the town and reach a car park at the road end. Good quick access for Veleta, Los Machos and Catujo sectors. Cariguela hut is 3hrs from here. (2) Cortijuela (1700m)…. Read more »

Huts & bivvies of the Sierra Nevada

Posted by & filed under Huts and bivvy sites, Misc.

MANNED: Poqueira Hut (2500m). Guarded Hut – 87 beds. Tel:958343349. V.good. Just SE Rio Mulhacen. Approach from Capileira or Hoya de la Mora. Postero Alto (2000m). Guarded Hut – winter quarters. Tel:958760106. Firebreak main route Picon de Jeres above Jerez. GOOD CONDITION: Cariguela (3200m). Sleeps12. Hut, wooden bunks. Between Veleta and Tajos de la Virgen. 3hrs from… Read more »

Salon (3,325m) Corredor Norte

Posted by & filed under Grade AD, Veleta, Videos.

Winter – AD (50º) (PD in good conditions with footsteps to follow!) 1st Ascent – Unknown Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and… Read more »

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Vuelo del Aguila)

Posted by & filed under Grade ED, Veleta, Videos.

Rock Climb – D (IV and V) 1st Ascent – 5th August 1967 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Emilio Ortiz/Sanchez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Martinez Perea Winter – ED 1st Ascent – 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the… Read more »

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Trompeta)

Posted by & filed under Grade AD, Veleta, Videos.

Rock Climb – AD (IV and V) 1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs)… Read more »