Sierra Nevada Mountaineering Guide

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Trompeta)

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – AD (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – This climb starts some 20 metres higher than the start of the Corredor del Salon. Traverse right on a short passage of very airy rock (V). At the end of this you change direction leftwards in a short crack for some 3 metres (IV). Continue the climb with short pitches and small stances until you reach the top near the summit.

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Tajos del Veleta)

Grade D, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – D (V Sup)
1st Ascent – 4th August 1963 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Jose Ruiz

Climb – Commence the climb up a large crack with good holds. In the middle of the climb you meet an interesting pitch situated to the left of overhangs that impede progress. Move up some 8 metres on sloping holds. (V Sup). Finish directly uphill.

Veleta (3,394m) NE Face (via Directa)

Grade AD, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – AD (IV to V Sup)
1st Ascent – 23rd August 1964 Maurice Lemaine/Carlos Vazquez Canas/Jose Ruiz/Emilio Ortiz Sanchez

Climb – The start of the climb is found some 10 metres right of the highest point of the Corredor del Salon. The climb commences with an 8 metre crack with an exit onto a small ridge (V). Continue the climb traversing difficult blocks (V Sup) until a platform is reached. Almost immediately you come to the “paso horizontal” moving left for 12 metres to reach a stance, which joins the Olmedo-Carlos route. Follow this up a small chimney, cracks and ridges to the top of the peak.

Veleta (3,394m) N and NE Face (via Olmedo-Carlos)

Grade AD, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – AD (III and one of IV)
1st Ascent – 20th Sept 1959 Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Carlos Vazquez Canas

Climb – There is often a rimaye formed under the Corredor del Salon between the rock walls of Veleta and the ice of the Corredor. It is best to do this climb at the end of summer when all ice is gone. The rock climb begins at the base of the NE wall of Veleta. The first pitch is IV, then III and continues with a small chimney and two cracks III of some 30 metres. Finally you reach a small platform where it is only a short step to the top.

Veleta (3,394m) NE Face (via Fidel-Fierro)

Grade AD, Grade PD, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb - V Diff. Alpine PD/AD
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – Cross the Corral and ascend the Corredor del Salon to the col. Turn right and ascend the rocks. Diff if straight up by the easiest line, V.Diff if the line further to the right is taken.

Veleta (3,394m) North ridge (via Normal)

Grade F, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Winter – F
1st Ascent – Unknown

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (Los Posiciones) (2hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr).

Climb – Keeping as close to the cliff edge on the left as possible make an ascending traverse. There is sometimes sheet ice or verglas here and there have been accidents. Follow the edge L round to the summit (1½hrs).