To the NE and SE of the summit area there exist some good lines of easy terrain eminently suitable for a beginner or those new to the sport.
Nov 272008
Winter – PD
Approach from the Postero Alto hut (guarded) (3hrs). Climb is up the obvious couloir line. Plenty of belays available. Nice climb!
Winter – PD
1st Ascent – 12th April 1968
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.
Jun 292008
Winter – PD to AD
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach from Poqueira(2hrs), Viento (45 mins), Caldera (1hr) or Cariguela (1hr). Loads of potential for short routes. You will have to drop down one of the easier gullies, contour round before coming up one of the harder variations. Many lines exist. This is climbing of an exploratory nature!
Winter – PD
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach the Col del Ciervo from Poqueira Hut (2hrs) or via the Caldera refugio (30 mins). Take the pleasant ridge throughout keeping to the crest for maximum exposure. There are a few rock steps but it is only on the final steps to the summit that an exposed step must be passed, either left, direct or rightwards (max exposure) (1hr). Return directly, if conditions allow, down the south face to the hut (20 mins)
Winter – Various PD to D (III to V Sup)
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach from the Poqueira, Cariguela or Viento hut. Loads of potential here with many short gullies in a fantastic setting. All grades, good protection. The main ridge of the Raspones looks inviting too?
Jun 292008
Winter – F/PD
1st Ascent – Unknown
From Siete Lagunas. A easy snow ascent in a great area. 500m ascent to the summit up simple snow slopes. Has been used as a fast glissade off the summit but only in perfect snow conditions!
Winter – PD
1st Ascent – Unknown
From Siete Lagunas follow the valley NW and upwardstowards its head. Before reaching the ridgeline at Puntal de Siete Lagunas look right. A break in the cliffs will be seen. Go steeply up heading for this break. A small step at half height may be problematic and if iced up may push the grade to AD. Otherwise it is steep snow to the col and easily on to the summit (3hrs from Siete Lagunas). Descend via the normal route.
Winter – F/PD
1st Ascent – Unknown
Quickest approach is via Borreguiles above the ski centre. Traverse past the iced up Laguna and then follow the trail along the side of Tajos de la Virgen to the Elorrieta hut. N.B This is an avalanche blackspot and fatalities have occurred here!
Winter – PD/AD Mixed
1st Ascent – Unknown
Follow the access route to Los Posiciones and thence to the Collado de Cariguela (3hrs, hut). Ridge is similar but shorter than the Aonach Eagach in Scotland. A mixed route, always. Can be quite hard under deep powder snow. Follow the ridge over 2 crux sections to the Elorietta bivouac hut.
A more detailed description and photos together with advice for a return to the ski area can be found at the following link:
http://www.sierra-nevada-news.com/2008/06/options-tajos-de-la-virgen-ridge-to-elorietta-refugio/
