Winter – ED (60º and V Sup)
1st Ascent – 6th January 1973 Barragan/Padilla
Mulhacen approaches from the south

 

Winter – ED
1st Ascent – Unknown

 

Rock Climb – AD (Winter ED)
1st Ascent – 4th August 1963 Emilio Ortiz Sanchez/Jose Contreras/AntonioGomez Martos/Pablo Bueno Porcel

Veleta approachApproach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Salon N face, Veleta

 

Rock Climb – D (V Sup), Winter ED
1st Ascent – 1st Sept 1963 Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez/Jesus Barranco Serrano

Veleta approach

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – As you approach down the Veredon Superior, this climb is situated on the walls to the right. The climb starts with 60 metres of vertical rock, followed by a 30 metre horizontal passage left to a small crack. Continue up 15 metres until a blank wall is met (V Sup). Mount the wall by whatever means you can and then move rightwards missing the difficult overhangs above. Climb the final walls to the top.

Veredon Superior access to Veleta

 

 

Rock Climb – ED (numerous V, VI and A2)
1st Ascent –
26 July 1967 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez

Veleta approach

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – Start the climb on a wall with very delicate holds. This reaches a more vertical wall with scarce holds (V). The next 60 metres of free climbing are at V Sup at the end of which are overhanging walls. At the end of this section a 6 metre pendulum needs to be made leftwards into a small couloir before continuing the climb. At the end of the couloir large overhangs bar progress. A horizontal passage of 6 metres leads to another section, which is climbed, aided (A2) for another 6 metres.

Veredon Superior access to Veleta

North face Veleta

 

Rock Climb – D (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 5th August 1967 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla
Mesa/Emilio Ortiz/Sanchez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Martinez Perea

Winter – ED
1st Ascent – 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon

Veleta approachVeredon Superior access to VeletaApproach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – The climb consists of 6 steep pitches between IV and V grade. After the 2nd pitch there is a traverse to the right for 20 metres. On the 6th pitch you meet a small overhang (V), which continues with an airy horizontal traverse to the right. This pitch climbs a big inclined crack rightwards until the ridgeline is met.
Veleta

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