Sierra Nevada Mountaineering Guide

Tajos de la Virgen ridge (3,160m)

Jun 282008

Winter – PD/AD Mixed
1st Ascent – Unknown

Follow the access route to Los Posiciones and thence to the Collado de Cariguela (3hrs, hut). Ridge is similar but shorter than the Aonach Eagach in Scotland. A mixed route, always. Can be quite hard under deep powder snow. Follow the ridge over 2 crux sections to the Elorietta bivouac hut.

A more detailed description and photos together with advice for a return to the ski area can be found at the following link:
http://www.sierra-nevada-news.com/2008/06/options-tajos-de-la-virgen-ridge-to-elorietta-refugio/

Salon (3,325m) N Face

Grade ED, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – AD (Winter ED)
1st Ascent – 4th August 1963 Emilio Ortiz Sanchez/Jose Contreras/AntonioGomez Martos/Pablo Bueno Porcel

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Salon (3,325m) Corredor Norte

Grade AD, Veleta, Videos No Responses »

Jun 272008

Winter – AD (50º) (PD in good conditions with footsteps to follow!)
1st Ascent – Unknown

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.

Climb leftwards missing the initial rocks in the bottom half of the couloir. Attain the couloir and climb straight up. Steep but it has been frequently skied (by experts only!). This can be a very popular route.

N.B The line on the photo below is not quite accurate in that the approach is from the right not left hand side.

Veredon Superior (via Tajos del Campanario)

Grade D, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Winter – D (60º to 70º)
1st Ascent – 18th March 1962 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Jose Contreras/Fernando Rivera Guerro

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – Make your own way up slopes steep snow slopes with usually large overhanging cornices at the top.

Veleta (3,394m) Tajos del Campanario Superior

Grade ED, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – D (V Sup), Winter ED
1st Ascent – 1st Sept 1963 Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez/Jesus Barranco Serrano

Climb – As you approach down the Veredon Superior, this climb is situated on the walls to the right. The climb starts with 60 metres of vertical rock, followed by a 30 metre horizontal passage left to a small crack. Continue up 15 metres until a blank wall is met (V Sup). Mount the wall by whatever means you can and then move rightwards missing the difficult overhangs above. Climb the final walls to the top.

Veleta (3,394m) Extraplomos o Diedros del Veleta

Grade ED, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – ED (numerous V, VI and A2)
1st Ascent – 26 July 1967 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez

Climb – Start the climb on a wall with very delicate holds. This reaches a more vertical wall with scarce holds (V). The next 60 metres of free climbing are at V Sup at the end of which are overhanging walls. At the end of this section a 6 metre pendulum needs to be made leftwards into a small couloir before continuing the climb. At the end of the couloir large overhangs bar progress. A horizontal passage of 6 metres leads to another section, which is climbed, aided (A2) for another 6 metres.

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Vuelo del Aguila)

Grade ED, Veleta, Videos No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – D (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 5th August 1967 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla
Mesa/Emilio Ortiz/Sanchez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Martinez Perea

Winter – ED
1st Ascent – 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon

Climb – The climb consists of 6 steep pitches between IV and V grade. After the 2nd pitch there is a traverse to the right for 20 metres. On the 6th pitch you meet a small overhang (V), which continues with an airy horizontal traverse to the right. This pitch climbs a big inclined crack rightwards until the ridgeline is met.

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Trompeta)

Grade AD, Veleta, Videos No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – AD (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel

Climb – This climb starts some 20 metres higher than the start of the Corredor del Salon. Traverse right on a short passage of very airy rock (V). At the end of this you change direction leftwards in a short crack for some 3 metres (IV). Continue the climb with short pitches and small stances until you reach the top near the summit.

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Tajos del Veleta)

Grade D, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – D (V Sup)
1st Ascent – 4th August 1963 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Jose Ruiz

Climb – Commence the climb up a large crack with good holds. In the middle of the climb you meet an interesting pitch situated to the left of overhangs that impede progress. Move up some 8 metres on sloping holds. (V Sup). Finish directly uphill.

Veleta (3,394m) NE Face (via Directa)

Grade AD, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb – AD (IV to V Sup)
1st Ascent – 23rd August 1964 Maurice Lemaine/Carlos Vazquez Canas/Jose Ruiz/Emilio Ortiz Sanchez

Climb – The start of the climb is found some 10 metres right of the highest point of the Corredor del Salon. The climb commences with an 8 metre crack with an exit onto a small ridge (V). Continue the climb traversing difficult blocks (V Sup) until a platform is reached. Almost immediately you come to the “paso horizontal” moving left for 12 metres to reach a stance, which joins the Olmedo-Carlos route. Follow this up a small chimney, cracks and ridges to the top of the peak.