Sierra Nevada Mountaineering Guide

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Veleta (3,394m) NE Face (via Fidel-Fierro)

Grade AD, Grade PD, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Rock Climb - V Diff. Alpine PD/AD
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb – Cross the Corral and ascend the Corredor del Salon to the col. Turn right and ascend the rocks. Diff if straight up by the easiest line, V.Diff if the line further to the right is taken.

Veleta (3,394m) North ridge (via Normal)

Grade F, Veleta No Responses »

Jun 272008

Winter – F
1st Ascent – Unknown

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (Los Posiciones) (2hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr).

Climb – Keeping as close to the cliff edge on the left as possible make an ascending traverse. There is sometimes sheet ice or verglas here and there have been accidents. Follow the edge L round to the summit (1½hrs).

Rio Crestones, Raspones, Mulhacen, Caldera from the S

Access and approaches No Responses »

Jun 272008

Access via the Poqueira Hut or Refugio de la Caldera.

Mulhacen N face from the S

Access and approaches No Responses »

Jun 272008

Access the Collado de Ciervo via the Poqueira hut (2hrs) or the Refugio de la Caldera (20 mins). Drop down to the Laguna de la Mosca (30 mins). The Refugio de la Caldera is unguarded and normally has space but be careful on holidays and fiesta days!

Veredon Superior

Access and approaches No Responses »

Jun 272008

For the entry from Los Posiciones into the Corral de Veleta. Normally a fixed abseil descent due large cornices. Gives access to Veleta, Veta Grande and Los Machos areas

Veleta from the Hoya de la Mora

Access and approaches No Responses »

Jun 272008

To reach Los Posiciones for the descent into the Corral de Veleta for the climbs on Veleta and Los Machos north faces (2-3 hrs).

Poqueira Hut approaches

Access and approaches No Responses »

Jun 272008

There are 3 main routes:
(1) Via the Hoya de Portillo ranger station above Capileira (3hrs) but depends on getting a car to the 2200m start point in the forest. Little ascent and the easiest route in good conditions.
(2) Via the Acequia route (3hrs). Not recommended if snow and ice below 2500m as this route will involve traversing angled slopes. Hard on the old feet!
(3) The Poqueira Gorge. From the electric station on up the valley head. Climb up to Cortijo thomas and then on up and left to the hut (4hrs). This is the most sheltered way in poor conditions.