An ascent of Aconcagua (6959m, 22830ft)

Introduction

The walk in to Base Camp, AconcaguaThe ascent of Aconcagua is not a technical climb but due to its altitude and general ease of access certain precautions must be taken. Ice axe and crampons are required in case the easy angled upper slopes of the mountain are covered in ice. Whilst the ascent of the mountain is not a stroll, the altitude clearly presents problems. These problems are increased when combined with the notoriously changeable weather conditions (we have seen snow storms at 13,000ft in February). The ever present hot, often violent winds which at altitude can reach 100 mph, can drop the temperature down to below -30 degrees centigrade.

Approach to Base Camp

Camp at ConfluenciaAfter flying into Santiago, we make a coach journey through the Chilean landscape, cross the border into Argentina to the town of Puenta des Inca at 5,750ft, where we spend the night in a hostel. The following day we take a coach to Mendoza where we collect the climbing permits, sightsee and return to Puenta des Inca where we start the first days walk to Confluencia at 11,050ft. We shall stay at this camp for 2 nights due to the short time that it has taken to reach this altitude. Mules will have to be employed to carry the main rucksack to the base camp at Plaza Mulas at 14,100ft, leaving a lighter sack to be carried over the 3 days to base camp at Plaza Mulas.

The Climb

In the Horcones valleyDuring the following week 2 camps will be established. One at Cambio de Pendiente at 17,700ft and another at Berlin some 2,000ft higher at 19,700ft, returning to the lower camp to sleep before finally moving to the upper camp the following day, or after a rest day.

On day 12 we make a summit attempt, the 3,150 ft of climbing taking between 6 to 10 hours. 2 hours will be required to return to Berlin.

Due to the constant warm wind, fluid intake has to be of paramount importance at every stage of the ascent. Dehydration is also exaggerated by the sudden arrival at high altitude.This brief summary of the ascent assumes ideal weather conditions therefore, the itinerary allows for a second attempt from the intermediate camp at Berlin.

Itinerary

At Base Camp
  • Day 1 : Flight from London to Santiago
  • Day 2 : Coach journey from Santiago to Mendoza
  • Day 3 : After arranging climbing permits, a coach journey to Puenta des Inca where we stay overnight in a hostel
  • Day 4 : Walk to Confluencia at 11,050ft, carrying half loads. Mules take the main baggage to Plaza Mulas at 14,100)
  • Day 5 : Walk from Confluencia to Plaza Mulas, base camp at the foot of the mountain
  • Day 6 : Once again a further day spent at base camp to assist with acclimatisation. There are several interesting walks in the area.
  • Day 7 : The climb now begins in earnest. Carrying half loads we climb the zig-zag path to Cambio Pendiente (17,700ft) where we set up the first camp, returning to Plaza Mulas for the night.
  • Day 8 : We carry the remaining equipment and food to Cambio de Pentiente, where we remain for the night.
  • Day 9 : Load carrying to the next camp at Berlin (19,700ft). Once again we return to the lower camp for the night.
  • Day 10 : Carry any remaining equipment to Berlin where we stay the night.
  • Day 11 : The day is spent at Berlin exploring the locale. This assists with acclimatisation.
  • Day 12 : Summit attempt. After a difficult climb up the Caneletta we emerge onto the ridge between the two summits. It is then an easy walk to the north summit. Return and remain at Berlin for the night.
  • Day 13 : Possible second summit attempt, or return to plaza Mulas for the night.
  • Day 14 : Walk to park entrance and hence to Puenta des Inca where we stay once again at the hostel.
  • Day 15 : Rest day
  • Day 16 : Coach to Santiago
  • Day 17 : Sightseeing in Santiago
  • Day 18 : Return flight to London

Cost

2300 euros + flights to/from Santiago de Chile. Covers park entrance, transportation, climbing permit, guiding, gear hire if required.