Report and video of climbing the Canuto Norte de Veleta, one of the classic mountaineering routes (AD) in the Sierra Nevada.

Grade - Winter – AD (50º) (AD- in good conditions with footsteps to follow!)

Approach

Access for the next few routes all leave the Hoya de la Mora and ascend the broad NNW slopes of Veleta. Pass either side of the statue, “Virgen de las Nieves” and L of the chairlift station “Telesilla de la Virgin”. There are always plenty of trails and even the edges of the “Aguila” ski piste can be used to easily ascend to the 3100m northern shoulder of Veleta named “Posiciones del Veleta” (1.5-2hrs). It is frequently very windy and icy hereabouts with huge cornices eastwards into the Corral del Veleta.

Descent from here back to the Hoya de la Mora in bad weather is easy. Just follow the outer edge of the ski pistes and reverse the route of ascent.

Access to Corral del Veleta

Many routes start from the deep valley of the Corral which lies beneath the impressive N face of Veleta. In early or late season you can crampon down the slanting rake known as the Veredon Superior del Veleta. Care is required as the walls are almost vertical beneath.

If there are large cornices then access to the Veredon will have to be made via abseil. There is an abseil point installed further up the ridge crest and some 30m height above the ski road. An orange sign on a rock marks the place. 2 - 50m ropes will be sufficient. Keep crampons on for when you join the Veredon.

The Climb

Climb leftwards missing the initial rocks in the bottom half of the couloir. Attain the couloir and climb straight up. Steep but it has been frequently skied (by experts only!). This can be a very popular route so an early start is recommended.

Finish

Best finish is to traverse south from the col, then climb directly up to the summit of Veleta (3394m). The route is called “Fidel Fierro” and is again at AD (rock VD) standard. The way is well way-marked by crampon scratches.

Enjoy!

Thanks to Ian Tupman for the video

Veleta with the Canuto left of summit
Veleta with the Canuto left of summit
Abseiling into the Corral del Veleta
Abseiling into the Corral del Veleta
The easier upper slopes to the col
The easier upper slopes to the col
Ascending Fidel Fierro from the col
Ascending Fidel Fierro from the col
An exposed finish
An exposed finish