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Los Raspones de Rio Seco

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 21:29:25 +0000

A TRAVERSE OF LOS RASPONES DE RIO SECO
I have done some scrambling and low-grade rock climbing in the past but as a non-climber, I had been uncertain as to whether the Raspones ridge was within my capabilities. On 24th November, I was to find out.
Our group was seven strong with a multi-national flavour and of mixed abilities. We set off late morning on Friday 23rd November from just below the Hoya del Portillo and walked in along the acequia alta, stopping at the Poquiera refuge for our lunch break. From there, we crossed the Rio Mulhacén and traversed around the massive bulk of Loma Pelada to arrive at our camp for the night at the base of the Raspones ridge and next to the Rio Seco.
By the time we had set up camp there was still an hour of daylight to be had and three of us ascended the Puntal de Terreras Azules (2,804m) via the ridge which forms the southerly extension of the Raspones. With the sun setting to the west and the valleys below filled with cloud, it was one of those ‘never-to-be-forgotten’ moments when we reached the summit cairn. We completed our return to the tents by the light of our head torches and after our meals we turned in for an early night.
Breakfast taken and our preparations made, we set off around 8.30am and climbed to the southern end of the ridge. Two of our party would stay there and photograph our progress with the rest of us proceeding on two ropes. Jens led the first rope with Javier and Filipe behind. Sieto and I followed on the second rope. The weather forecast had been for cloud, with light to moderate winds but we had blue sky and hardly a breeze. The conditions could not have been better.
The initial section is similar in nature to the Cuillin ridge on the Isle of Skye but with noticeably more dubious rock; however, we found sufficient natural protection as we proceeded northwards. In places the exposure is breath-taking with precipitous drops to either side. There was more snow than I had expected but it was generally soft and not very deep so the crampons stayed in the bag for the time being.
The first rope made quick progress ahead of us and it became clear to Sieto and I that we would be holding up the other three if they kept waiting for us. We had almost reached the half-way point but it had taken us the best part of three hours and with harder climbing ahead, we calculated it would have been dark by the time we walked back out to the cars. We discussed how we were both feeling and our options. We had a seemingly escapable gulley immediately to our right which would bring us to the base of the east side of the ridge and so we informed the others of our decision and wished them luck as they moved off to gain the highest part of the ridge.
We looked down the gulley but, as we couldn’t see the bottom, we weren’t sure whether the rope was long enough to get us onto safe ground. I spotted a rock projecting out of the snow approximately fifteen metres below us which appeared to be a potential anchor point. We put on our crampons and I belayed Sieto from a convenient rock at the top of the gulley as he down-climbed to investigate further. After much prodding and pulling, Sieto declared the rock was good enough for a belay and so, totally committed, I removed the top belay and down-climbed with Sieto protecting me from below. The snow in the gulley was soft and varied in depth which made front-pointing slightly awkward at times. With us both safely attached to the lower belay and with more experience than me, Sieto set up the abseil which we both checked. As it turned out, the rope would have reached the bottom of the rocks from the top of the gulley but we couldn’t have taken the chance. From where we were now though, it crossed the steep slope at the base of the gulley as well and would get us onto relatively level ground. I descended first and enjoyed the cool air of the gulley after being in the sun on the ridge for over three hours. Sacrificing some cord and an old karabiner, Sieto followed and we packed up and headed down into the valley and back along to our camp. Our two companions were waiting for us and the other three returned shortly after, elated at their achievement. We struck camp and walked out to the cars; a long day but a satisfying one.
In summary, I was initially disappointed that Sieto and I hadn’t completed the traverse. On reflection however, I had been at the upper limit of my comfort zone at times but I had enjoyed the challenge and the experience. The decision we made to bail out was measured and was free of any machismo which can so often lead to trouble in such situations.
Will I go back and complete the traverse? Definitely, but over three days rather than two. This will give more time on the ridge and a relaxing walk out on the third day. Watch this space!
Ian Tupman
November 2012

Helmet cam from Via Ferrata at Comares, Malaga

Sun, 27 May 2012 10:22:21 +0100

Ian Tupmans latest headcam video from the via ferrata we did at Comares north of Velez Malaga last week. Short but steep route.

First climbing rope

Mon, 21 May 2012 14:04:07 +0100

I am looking to buy my first rope for year-round scrambling and winter use and the Beal Joker 9.1 appears to tick all the boxes (http://bealplanet.com/sport/anglais/corde-joker.php)
Does anyone have any thoughts on this particular rope or any other recommendations?
Thanks.

Caballo and Elorrieta this week

Tue, 15 May 2012 12:33:50 +0100

Last December, bad weather forced an abandonment of this trip at Refugio del Caballo so, with good weather forecast for the next three days, my plan is;
Wednesday - park at Ventura trailhead, ascend Cerro del Caballo via SW ridge and overnight at Caballo hut.
Thursday - Tajos Altos, Pico del Cartujo and overnight at Elorrieta hut.
Friday - return to car via Verea Corte, Caballo hut and lower path to Ventura.
Spanish reports say patches of snow along ridges but knee deep in places on leeward slopes so I will be taking crampons and ice axe. As I haven't been further than the Caballo hut, I would appreciate any thoughts/comments on proposed route, sources of water etc. Many thanks.

Video of scrambling trip to Peñón de la Mata

Tue, 01 May 2012 12:00:20 +0100

Another scrambling trip to Peñón de la Mata . Ascent via the west ridge followed by lunch and then a short and sweet scramble on 'Dexter'.

Video from Tuppers

Pacerpoles? Are these trekking poles any good?

Sat, 21 Apr 2012 11:30:57 +0100

First time Ive heard of them but they have had some good reviews. Has anybody any experience of using these?

Website at http://www.pacerpole.com/

Long scrambles on the Peñon de Mata, Sierra de Huetor

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:11:25 +0100

This neglected area has a wealth of untapped scrambling potential. Check out the videos below from our recent trip of discovery!

Avalanche in Sierra Nevada hits group of 6, 1 injured.

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:31:40 +0100

A group of seven people have been caught by a snow avalanche today in the Sierra Nevada. The avalanche swept away the whole group, although only one of them was half buried by snow. They were doing a winter walk in the area of the Tajos de la Virgin close to the Laguna de las Yeguas, head of the Rio Dílar. She was only injured at it was not life threatening. She was transferred by helicopter to a hospital in Granada.

It may be April but the dangers are still there. Maybe more snow in the next few days

Full report from Ideal newspaper in spanish at
http://www.ideal.es/granada/20120418/loc...81348.html

Alcazaba next week?

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:36:36 +0100

With the recent snowfall I'm thinking of trying for Alcazaba next week, weather permitting.
Leave the car below Hoya del Portillo and take acequia alta to Poquiera refuge and continue to Caldera hut for overnight. From the Caldera hut is there a feasible route below/across the north face of Mulhacen to bring me up to Alcazaba?
From Alcazaba, return to Poquiera hut via Siete Lagunas, Chorreras Negras and across south ridge of Mulhacen. Overnight at Poquiera and back to the car the next morning.
Thoughts on likely conditions and possible routes greatly appreciated.

Sierra Nevada ski centre shutting down 15th April.

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 15:12:06 +0100

It has just been announced that the ski centre will close in the Sierra Nevada on 15th April. This is the earliest I can remember it closing and I have lived here for 10 winters.

It is hardly surprising after the poor winter we have had. There is 52km of piste still open. Me? I shall be heading up doing a bit of ski touring on perfect snow as soon as I can after the 15th.

See link at http://sierranevada.ideal.es/actualidad/...abril.html

Hot feet and boot care

Sun, 01 Apr 2012 13:41:16 +0100

I offer the following to anyone who may have had a similar experience.
Even in cold weather, my feet become hot in walking boots and over the years I have tried all sorts of combinations of boot material and socks to avoid heat build-up, hotspots and blisters. I eventually settled on all-leather boots (Meindl Borneo) and Thorlo Light Hiking Socks and I was so pleased with the boots that I bought a second pair to spread the wear.
Recently though, the problem of heat build-up returned and I spoke with one of the boot experts at Fishers in Keswick for advice. It transpired that, although I have been meticulous in cleaning and treating the outsides of my boots, I had been neglecting the insides. Sweat and dirt had blocked the pores in the leather, preventing it from ‘breathing’ properly and causing heat and moisture to be retained.
The solution has been simple and cheap. Firstly, I replaced the Meindl footbeds with Zamberlan footbeds which are perforated and so help dissipate the heat from the soles of my feet. Secondly, I remove and wash the insoles after every trip and after every 28 days or so of use, I clean the insides of the boots with a warm solution of Nikwax Techwash and a soft brush followed by thorough rinsing with cold water and leave the boots to dry slowly in a warm place.
Problem solved!

Advice needed: The Far Eastern Sierras

Tue, 20 Mar 2012 13:34:47 +0000

I'm thinking about a hastily arranged Easter trip to the mountains.

Have you much knowledge of a trekking route that would start out (accessing from Guadix) from the camp site in Jerez del Marquesado up to Puerto de Trevelez then heading out along the main crest EAST towards San Juan, Morron, Chullo and onwards. We have several days to travel nice and slowly and enjoy the wild camps.

I've been as far as San Juan in March and April before. No water problems then with snow and/or melt streams.

My map finishes at Chullo so the rest of the trip eastwards is a bit unknown at the moment!

The thinking here is to avoid full on winter conditions on the big mountains and enjoy trekking away from the Fox zone (or do you think we could face Fox issues in the east)?

I've often gazed along the ridge crest towards the east and wondered about it.

All the best
Dave Porter

Snow in the Sierras! Webcam view from Poqueira hut

Tue, 20 Mar 2012 08:09:50 +0000

About 20cm snow fell in parts of the Sierra Nevada overnight. Some more expected this afternoon.

This is the view from the Refugio de Poqueira webcam this morning.

Visit their site at http://refugiopoqueira.com/

Mountain conditions in the Sierra Nevada this weekend

Sat, 10 Mar 2012 09:15:25 +0000

All areas
Very irregular distribution of the snow, hard snow areas / frost / ice, bare ground (rock). Lower areas no snow.

Hoya de la Mora – Veleta
Access Road A-395 is clear.
Snow level: first snows at approx. 2500m.
Carihuela bivouac: in good condition.

Poqueira
Recommended access to Poqueira Refuge: Central Electric Cebadilla or Acequia Alta
Refugio Caldera from Refugio Poqueira: Rio Mulhacén
Carihuela bivouac: in good condition.
Villavientos bivouac: in good condition

Caballo
Access: From Niguelas to Fuentefría in bad condition.
Snow level: approx. 2700m

Genil
Snow level: approx. 1900m. Some ice and bad tracks

Postero Alto – Alhorí
Snow level: approx. 2100m.
Difficult access to the Postero Alto Refugio. Some ice early and mud later in the day. 4WD essential from Jerez.

Ragua
GR-337 access road and Puerto de la Ragua (2000m.) is clear
Snow level: approx 2000

ME karakorum pants

Thu, 08 Mar 2012 01:52:34 +0000

I needed a new pair of ski pants that I could also use for winter mountaineering and the Mountain Equipment Karakorum pants have been just the job. They are well made, waterproof and windproof and weigh a lot less than my old ski trousers. They have elasticated cuffs which can be tied under your boots to form gaiters but the elastic alone keeps them snug enough for snowshoeing without letting any snow into your boots. The full length side zips make them easy to get on and off over boots and crampons. Highly recommended and at around £160, it's cheaper than buying ski pants and mountain trousers.

Short-toed Eagles are back

Mon, 05 Mar 2012 13:14:22 +0000

Short-toed Eagles are back in the Alpujarras, a magnificent eagle to see and great to see that the spring migration has started. This is a shot I took yesterday.

Avalanche San Juan Bowl

Sun, 19 Feb 2012 10:00:58 +0000

There has been a small avalanche again at the same site as last years accident that claimed the life of one person. Hopefuly the people in the pictures below are just searching for gear and not for lost people.

Site centred mapping !

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 17:00:36 +0000

Mike at http://www.Aqua3.com now has his license through to access OS data in the UK so he can personalise a map for you centred at whatever location you wish. You could also add your own data to the map prior to print

GoPro Hero2

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:19:13 +0000

Has anyone had any experience with one of these ?

http://www.actioncameras.co.uk/gopro-hd-...or-edition

Sierra Nevada Mountain access for weekend 9th February 2012

Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:28:02 +0000

Very icy in many places. Low temperatures and high winds. Care required.