Alcazaba North Face - a little help

[fuel__2001]

Had a great experience in Sierra Nevada during last summer and planned to do the los tres mil. Although we never accomplished what we set out to do we still had a great time, although the foxes stole our food one night.

Got the usual assortment of books and maps, and scoured the net for as much information as we could before we left the UK. We were using Andy Walmsley guide as the basis for our route, and were completely self sufficient, although not with full expedition sack, more like over weight day sacks

We were using public transport to get around the park so we got the bus from Granada and began our walk in from Jerez del Marquesardo.
In hindsight on the first day we should've walked in further to the Postero rufugio but adopted to stay at Lomilla campsite.

Anyway a couple of days walking and we were in front of the North Face of Alcazaba. When we were on the gran vasar the guide book becomes a slightly vague, especially as there are no pictures or topos. In fact any information about this route is non existent. Now I do climb and scramble although finding the best route through became quite daunting. We weren't sure how far along the shelf to walk before ascending up a gulley, as there are no indicators to say what gulley is best.
Getting it wrong here is not good. I think its as remote in the park as you can get.
So in the interest of self preservation, not even having a rope or any protection in case it got hairy we decided to back off and go round.

Hopefully I've attached a picture of the North face (ill have to post it later as it too big a file)
Can anyone elaborate on the route description or is there any features on the mountain to use, so i can go up the right gulley?

Anyway we eventualy bailed out after Mulhacen and went down to Trevelez. So I've got plans to go back and do the route, but this time in one go. Now having the information I lacked the first time round 

Cheers John

[El Perro Negro]

Hi John
Didnt get the photo. Do you want to send me an email with it? (info@spanishhighs.co.uk).
 
Sounds like you had some fun. The following post shows an ascent of the route from the Gran Vasar,  Vasar Superior and the gully you require http://www.nevasport.com/phorum/read.php?10,1775514,1775514#msg-1775514

Note that you will need to find the Vasar Superior to identify the correct gully line which from memory is the first gully line heading left as you traverse along the Vasar Superior.

The following forum posts (in spanish) you might also find interesting.
http://www.nevasport.com/phorum/read.php?10,1777988,1777988#msg-1777988
http://www.nevasport.com/phorum/read.php?10,1830990,1830990#msg-1830990

Hope this all helps?
Richard

[El Perro Negro]

By the way, John. We tend to do Los Tres Miles from south to north now. It allows for a high start point at the Ventura trailhead and finishes at Jerez. This leaves the wilder more remote stuff to the end and is aesthetically a bit more pleasing.

[fuel__2001]

We considered doing it from South to North although certain things made us choose North to South.
As we wanted to attempt Alcazaba north face, it seemed this was the only real option to come in from the North.

 

[El Perro Negro]

Yes Grade 3/diff sounds right to me. Dont think Andy Warmsley made it that easy for anybody to follow in his footsteps! I attach my interpretation of the routes.

There is also a relatively new route crossing below the crags to the left and climbing up through a breech in the walls. Simple scrambling and a better alternative than the huge dog leg out to the east. (marked)

[El Perro Negro]

The alternative to the left works well and saves about 2 hours. See http://www.sierra-nevada-news.com/2009/07/trail-alcazaba-vacares-saves-time-reascent/ for route description.

Alternatively you can continue round the Vasar Superior and into the easier gully to the SW of the peak. See attached photo. I think this is much easier and have been tempted to descend this in the winter (sometimes on 2 planks of wood!).

[fuel__2001]

Thats brilliant Richard, thanks for taking the time out to point out the alternatives.

So as well as Andy Warmsley ambitious 'grade 3 walk  ', there are another 2 possible alternatives.

Have you done these other 2 routes, the breech and SW gulley?

If you have walked these routes and you were to give them some level of grading as scrambles, what difficulty would you rate them at. I understand this is rather subjective and dependent upon conditions, but possibly using Andy's grade 3 route as a bench mark?

I totally understand if you wouldn't want to do this on a public forum.

[El Perro Negro]

Hi John

The Breech. You traverse on a remarkable path from below the Goteron under the crags. A bit loose, but not as exposed it looks from afar. When the crags above dissipate, go up loose scree to the breech, which is identifiable as the easiest way up (was to me anyway!). Initially there is a short step of grade 1 scrambling for 10m (up and step right). The remainder of the ascent is just steep walking over loose scree. Follow a rightward slanting rake for 50m then work your way upwards to the left of a large boulder which gives access to a final rightward trending rake. You emerge on the east ridge of Alcazaba. I did this in descent which was much more intimidating than on ascent.

The SW gully. I have not gone down this but it looks from above as straight forward scree slope. You end up on either the Vasar Superior or the Gran Vasar which can be followed to Laguna de la Mosca. Would be surprised if it's anything more than rough steep scree walking with maybe an odd exposed section.

[El Perro Negro]

Maybe this winter photo of the NW side of Alcazaba will help identify the correct line from the Vasar Superior?